26 November 2010

Cappuccino and World Map, Part 1

After almost two weeks out of site, I returned on a Sunday with Diana exhausted and short a pair of shoes (fell of the top of a micro, someone has some new keens). Diana wanted to explore Pachalum as soon as we arrived, so we dropped off our stuff at my house and hit the street. We walked only a few feet when my neighbor called me over to his house. Now this neighbor has some cute dogs and they just had puppies. I had visited the house before going on my travels to coo at the cuteness, so I thought he was inviting me over to see the puppies again…

Momma and the boys


But there were no longer three puppies, there was only one, the one I thought was the cutest. On Sunday November 14th, I became a first time dog-owner/mother to the brown puppy in the bunch. I immediately named my flea ridden baby Cappuccino Markowitz and he almost immediately peed on my shirt.

Post-pee, in the getting-to-know you phase

I saw the fleas, I washed the dog, he was not happy

I must admit, I was pretty freaked out about becoming a dog-owner. True, I have wanted a dog since I was a kid (that was the birthday gift I wanted every year), but I am selfish, I do not know if I have time for that type of commitment…plus I know nothing about dogs. My fears were realized the first night when I was awoken every couple of hours to my dog’s crying.

Monday, exhausted, I left my puppy at home to go to work. For the past month or so I have been planning a World Map project. In the 1980s, a Peace Corps Volunteer decided to paint a map of the world in her community since people did not know where countries were. It was a great experience with people coming together and working together and a manual was created, so I wanted to duplicate that experience here in Pachalum and take advantage of kids being on vacation. Of course, things are always more complicated in reality than they seem in a manual.

First, we needed to paint the wall of the school. There was no paint. So I had to leave for vacation and leave a coworker in charge. The wall was painted, but it was not completed, so on the first day of work, we just measured around the edges and discovered that along with being incomplete, the wall was not painted evenly (each side was a different length).

Measuring the sides

On Tuesday, Diana went back home, and I went back to the wall to finish painting the background. We completed painting, I went home for lunch to play with my puppy, and then went back to start drawing the grid.

Cappuccino time

But when we went back to the wall, it was wet…and not from the paint. Turns out, we painted the wall of the school right below where the bathrooms are on the second floor, and the bathroom was leaking. We found the repairman, asked him to turn off the waterflow, and headed home.

On Wednesday, the wall was finally dry (though there was some weird growth around the America’s section where the wall had been wet), and with the Architectural Student from the University who is doing his internship at the muni, we started drawing the grid with right angles and proper mesaurements.

Drawing the grid
Cappuccino at home

Thanks to the really long stick we got from a carpenter that we used as a ruler, we made the 1800 6cm^2 squares in around 3 hours and then we were able to start drawing. In my manual there were 28 pages to enlarge on the grid and within five hours we drew the whole world with five to seven people helping. What I should have realized is that such quick drawing might need an overview before painting. But I had people who wanted to work and I did not want them to leave, so when we finished drawing, I much too hastily took out the paints.

Painting

After painting for a few hours, we ran out and I went to the store to buy more. While at the store I took a look at the acrilyc paints that I was buying and saw that they were water based…but this map was on an outside wall, and the background paint was oil based. I went to three hardware stores and called my Peace Corps Supervisor and realized that the only way to fix my mistake was to buy oil based paints, and paint over what we had started.

Oil-based painting

Along with having paint problems, as we started getting into Europe and Asia, we realized that the map from the manual was circa 1980s, pre-Communist fall. So Yugoslavia was on the map, Armenia, Eritrea, Azerbaijan, Tajikistan, and a host of other –stans were nowhere to be found. I got stressed. We bought a Q1 world map at the local store and started drawing in lines where we thought countries went. At the end of the week, with few kids coming to paint (it was HOOOOT and hard), we put the brushes down for the weekend and took at break.

Cappuccino enjoys sleeping on people

On Saturday I took Cappuccino out to visit a few friends’ houses. We went to La Vega de Godinez, the township across the river from Pachalum that was badly hit by Agatha and were surprised by what we saw.

Despite beautiful vistas of the river, la Vega de Godinez has recently been declared and uninhabitable area due to landslides. Fifty-odd houses have had to be evacuated since the land under them is on a fault line and after the storm damage, the earth is slowly falling away. There have been periodic closures of the road to the capital due to erosion, and when we went to the Vega, I saw a house that was under construction completely destroyed due to erosion. It is really quite sad since a lot of these people have nowhere else to go, and their houses are all on dangerous territory. Almost a half a year after Agatha, there are still terrible repercussions for the people of Guatemala and the next winter will only bring more bad news with more rains accelerating erosion.

View of the river from a friend's house
Traveling can wear a puppy out

A home that was being built completely destroyed. Inside the doorways were bent out of shape and the floors were cracked and lifted.

Travels with Diana aka Alta Verapaz Here I Come!

The week after Feria, I went to Peace Corps for my Midservice Conference, which means I am more than halfway through! It is crazy to think how fast time has gone by, but there is plenty more to go, so no reminiscing yet. After the conference, most of my training group (around 25 of us) went to stay at a place called Earthlodge outside of Antigua. Pachalum is a hot site, so I always feel cold when I leave, but it was just my luck that when we went to our midservice conference, there was a cold front that swept through Guatemala. When I was not shivering in my two pairs of socks, I played some scrabble, did some jumping, and enjoyed the views.

I am the one who has the jumping photo idea and then I cannot even get off the ground. In front of Volcan de Agua.

My Scrabble. A once in a lifetime game, I missed my friend Devora when I was the first to finish all my letters with the Scrabble of IVORIES, it was a proud moment.

Volcanoes in the morning, Jocotenango below

My friend Diana came to visit me right after my midservice conference for a ten-day trip. Thanks to her visit, I was finally able to realize my dream of going to Coban, Alta Verapaz (for some reason I have been very focused on wanting to go there since I got into country). Diana and other PCVs were excellent company all over Alta Verapaz, officially my favorite department (granted I have not visited all 22 to make a fair judgement). Whomever wants to visit me next (Diana seemed to enjoy herself, good endorsement?) should be ready for a trip to Alta, because I LOVED it.

Following is a photo montage with some commentary, enjoyJ


Diana arrived early on a Sunday morning and with another PCV who lives in Alta Verapaz, I went to pick her up from the airport and directly to the bus station to catch a bus to Coban. The five hour trip from the capital was really cushy – the bus company that drives directly to Coban has reserved seats, so there was no pushing for seat room and there was a clean bathroom stop. We spent the first night in Coban, where we ate at a nice restaurant called Café D’Acuña, started by one of the first Peace Corps Volunteers in Guatemala who decided to stay after her service. On Monday morning we headed up with my friend to Laguna Lachua – a huge freshwater lake in the very north of Alta Verapaz (border with Quiché and Peten). It is an amazingly beautiful national park, even more amazing since it is not polluted (if you saw the sides of the roads, you would be extra impressed too). The ride up was four hours in a packed micro-bus on dirt roads, but it was definitely worth the trip.

Just got off the micro and ready for action.

We hiked in 4 kms to the in-park hotel with clean rooms and a kitchen to make your own food. The park has one hike (to get in and out), but really, once you see the lake, all you want to do is sit and watch.

Amazing reflections
Dock
Sunset

Along with amazing views, Laguna Lachua has some amazing bugs. Like GINORMOUS cockroaches that come out at night and get into your clothing (very yuck, but I was pretty calm about it) and lots of mosquitos. We were actually really lucky to go during the cold front since temperatures were a cool 70-80-degrees rather than the usual 100+.

On Tuesday morning we hiked out of Laguna Lachua, took another four hour micro back down to Coban and met up with my friend Marisha, who just finished her two years of service as a Municipal Development Volunteer.

Marisha, Diana, and Casa D'Acuña desserts

On Wednesday before heading to Semuc Champey, we detoured to a coffee cooperative where an eco-tourism volunteer works, which is known for its ziplining. I have been on my fair share of coffee tours at this point, so the talking about plants was a little boring, but then instead of walking all the way back to the entrance of the coffee cooperative, we ziplined pretty short distances with our Kekchi guide (the indigenous group in and around Coban is Kek’chi) and it was a lot of fun.

Note our Kekchi guide is in her traje típico under the ziplining gear
Coming in for a landing
Jumping PCVs and Diana at the Coffee Cooperative

Wednesday afternoon we headed out to Lanquin, about 2 hours from Coban, to spend the night before going to Semuc Champey. There is a large river that goes through that part of Alta Verapaz, not sure of the name, that has lots of cool river rafting sites, caves for exploring, and in this one place called Semuc Champey, beautiful multi-colored pools. In Semuc Champey (I think someone told me that in Kekchi that means place where the water disappears), the river goes underground for a little bit and as a result these pools formed where people can go swimming. On the tour, we first went to some water-filled caves called Las Marías where you go in 1 km holding candles. It was pretty cool but I did not take my camera and I also hit myself since I could not see the rocks underwater. Then we tubed down the river for a bit, some people jumped off of a swing into the river, and then finally we went into the Semuc Champey Park. First thing I did was climb up a literally non-stop steep vertical half-hour mountain to get the mirador (lookout) over Semuc Champey. It was amazing.

Semuc Champey from the mirador.
With Marisha and Diana

After hiking up, we had to hike back down, and we got to see where the water goes underground at the top of all the pools.

Water going underground

You are allowed to swim in the pools. Marisha and I attempting to do PC for Peace Corps
Two pools

After Semuc Champey, Diana and I went to Antigua and visited Lake Atitlan, definitely the most traveling that I have done in my 1.25 years in country thus far. It was a lot of fun, and I am so grateful that Diana gave me an excuse to get out of site and see some more of this beautiful country. Who’s next?